I have the june issue! I bought it at a show, so i still needed to ask when they came out but i will post the changes for you sarah xxx
I dont know if this is the right place to post it but here are the amendments to the breed standard for thordel (i though i would post them incase anyone else wanted them ;-) ) There are no changes to general apperance, temprement, characteristics, eyes, ears, neck, coat, colour, faults and note clauses. The new changes are highlighted in pink ;-) HEAD AND SKULL: Long and lean, flat on top, tapering to muzzle with slight stop, rather wide between the eyes, jaws powerful and clean cut. Nose black, in blues a bluish colour permitted, liver nose in creams and other dilute colours, in whites or parti-colours a butterfly nose is permissible. FOREQUATERS: Shoulders well laid back with flat muscles. Moderate space between the shoulder blades at the withers. The upper arm is approximately of equal lenght to the shoulder, placed so that the elbow falls directly under the withers when viewed in profile. Forearms straight and upright with moderate bladed bone. Front not too wide, Pasterns strong with a slight spring. BODY: Chest very deep with plenty of heart room. Well filled in front. Brisket deep. Broad, well muscled back, firm somewhat long, showing graceful arch over the loin but not humped. Ribs well sprung. Loin giving impression of strengh and power. Definite tuck up. HINDQUATERS: Strong, broad across the thighs, with well developed second thighs. Stifles well bent without exaggeration with hocks well let down. Able to stand naturally over a lot of ground. FEET: Oval, well split up between toes, knuckles well arched, pads thick, nails strong. TAIL: No feathering. Long tapering, reaching at least to the hock. When in action carried in a delicate curve not higher than the back. GAIT/MOVEMENT: Should possess great freedom of action. In profileshould move with a long,easy stride whilst holding topline. The forelegs should be thrown forward and low over the ground. Hind legs should come well under the body giving great propelling power. General movement not to look stilted, high stepping, short or mincing. True coming and going. SIZE: Desirable height: Dogs 47-51 cms (18.5 - 20 ins) Bitches: 44-47cms (17.5-18.5 ins) Hope this helps! ;-) sarah xxx
Thanks Sarah I see the KC has put it up on their site, quicker than usual, must have speeded up a bit of late. PS perhaps a note of the changes should be put in the breed section as I would guess those breeding and buying would be the most interested in these changes.
Sorry Sarah thing was I asked the question and it disappeared so while I was waiting for some one to tell me there it had gone I looked at the KC sight and lo and behold they had it on there, mind you I did use your typing to check what had changed so many thanks for that.
Lol your more than welcome I was joking about havin to do all that work lol it nice that the kc are quick for once! sarah xx
Hi u2 Forearms straight and upright After many discussion with other whippet exhibitors we feel this bit shouldnt have been changed, as it makes the dogs sound as if they should be upright in shoulder and could be mis-understood by all rounders.
Well allowing for those who never read a standard anyway I think it is clear it is the upper arm that is being referred too, but reading a standard and fully understanding it does take some effort on behalf of the student, you need to examine a large number of hounds too in order to understand what the words mean in practice.
But the upper arm shouldn't be upright either. It should slope back at an angle equal to the shoulder. The shoulder and upper arm being of approximately equal length is a mistake IMHO. In a well constructed dog, the upper arm is significantly longer.
When you feel the forehand construction it appears as if they are equal in length (in a well constructed dog of any breed) and this is a common mistake to assume this. The point of shoulder is actually the end of the upper arm bone, not the shoulder. The shoulder blade is set back, on the knuckle of the UA. To bring the elbow back to the position directly under the top of shoulder blade (which isn't the withers, another common mistake also in the Whippet standard), the upper arm has to be approximately 15% longer. Hard to explain in words, hope this diagramme shows it. It's the best I could find. http://www.pets.ca/articles/article-firstaidk9.htm
If your first point is correct then the experienced people in the breed have got it wrong, but to have a slope on the upper arm equal to that of the shoulder blade is the norm in dogs who have a well laid back shoulder, therefore to have an upright upper arm would cause the shoulder blade to be at an angle that would make movement very difficult. So I think the wording is incorrect, think they must have meant the lower arm and it will no doubt be changes as quickly as possible (in about 5 years ) Not sure I can agree with the second point - depends if the elbow should be under the withers or further back - would think inline with the withers or slightly in front would be the norm. In most breeds the length is about the same and it is the angle between these two bones that change between breeds, i.e. the Ibizan has an upright shoulder and therefore less angle and the GSD is very well laid and the angle is more but in both I do not think the upper arm could be said to be longer than the bone of the shoulder. Understand what you mean about the dissected skeleton being different to how it feels so I guess a standard is going to be written on the feel of the dog not the actual. However agree that those who are breeding or judging should be aware of the actual skeletal layout and dimensions. PS. Just re-read and something seems wrong, the bones of the upper are round long bones, are they not, not bladed ones?
Problem solved, well for me, it is the forearms that are straight and upright with bladed bone. silly me, must learn to read.
"Not sure I can agree with the second point - depends if the elbow should be under the withers or further back - would think inline with the withers or slightly in front would be the norm. In most breeds the length is about the same and it is the angle between these two bones that change between breeds, i.e. the Ibizan has an upright shoulder and therefore less angle and the GSD is very well laid and the angle is more but in both I do not think the upper arm could be said to be longer than the bone of the shoulder." The position in relation to withers shouldn't be of concern as this is part of the vertebral column. The norm is to have elbow placed directly under the top of shoulder blade. Most breeds standards don't even mention the upper arm but whether the angle between shoulder is open as in less angulated breeds or slightly more acute in well angulated breeds, the proportion of length of bones remains the same. "Understand what you mean about the dissected skeleton being different to how it feels so I guess a standard is going to be written on the feel of the dog not the actual. However agree that those who are breeding or judging should be aware of the actual skeletal layout and dimensions." Problem is you could get one pedantic judge (or breeder) who insists that a dog with a proportionally short upper arm is correct according to the standard....and he would be right! :?
A good deal of your points are true but we have to remember that the breed standard is only a guide and not a true blue print, every single one is open to interpretation, my own breeds is littered with words like comparatively & medium, and what we need is intelligent people breeding and judging not pedantic. Reading & understanding the standard of your chosen breed is required but nothing can take the place of years of studying your breed in general and the good ones in great detail.
"Bladed bone," I didn't notice that! Can't imagine what that means. The bones of the lower leg are round for maximum strength.
